Fashion: tissue, textile, toile

Andrews, Jorella G.. 2023. 'Fashion: tissue, textile, toile'. In: CAA (College Art Association) Annual Conference, 2024. Hilton Chicago, United States 17 February 2024. [Conference or Workshop Item]

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Abstract or Description

A panel co-chaired with Leah Durner.

“Where are we to put the limit between the body and the world since the world is flesh?” Maurice Merleau-Ponty in The Visible and the Invisible

Tissue is a word used for both the flesh of the human body and for cloth - the stuff in closest daily contact with us, touching, protecting and adorning our bodies. The conceptual, linguistic, and material intertwining of the human body with fashion and textiles in all their layers will be the subject of this panel.

Textiles are made by the action of human beings and then fabricated further into fashion – from “high” to “low;” – into a substrate for paintings onto which the image is applied; and into tapestries in which the image and the weave are totally integrated.

Toile (from the Latin “tela” web and also toil) is the final stage before a garment goes into production – serving, in effect, as the garment’s sculptural cartoon – and also refers to painting on canvas – huile sur toile. Human action – fashioning, making, and artifice – is a mark of the highest level of value and artistry in the highly skilled hand-sewing of haute couture, the hand-madeness of painting, the weaving of tapestries, and more.

Speakers: Pragya Sharma (The Sari-Body: Exploring Interrelationships with the Body, Landscape and Beyond), Christopher Rudeen, Harvard University (Human-Like: Personalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion) and Lauren Downing Peters, Columbia College Chicago and Emma McClendon, St. John's University (re)Dressing "Exhibition Quality": The Body, The Archive, and New Histories of American Fashion.

Item Type:

Conference or Workshop Item (Panel)

Departments, Centres and Research Units:

Visual Cultures


17 February 2024Completed
15 July 2023Accepted

Event Location:

Hilton Chicago, United States

Date range:

17 February 2024

Item ID:


Date Deposited:

04 Jan 2024 16:32

Last Modified:

10 May 2024 11:52


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